After spending an entire week with childhood friends in CDMX who I hadn’t seen in 12 years, I decided it was time to go on another mini adventure before my Mexico trip was over. I weighed cost and time options and settled on the little town of Xilitla in the state of San Luis Potosi. Most known for the surrealist castle built by Sir Edward James with the help and labor of many local Xilitlans in the 50’s, this little town is a wonder of natural, fresh pools and waterfalls.
I couchsurfed with someone who had moved to Xilita five years ago from Mexico City. When I first got off the bus at 7am, I wandered through a barely moving small town, messaged my host and got no response. I decided to settle down on some steps near where his house was supposed to be. I decided to wait one hour and if I still got no response, I would find a hostel nearby. While I was waiting, I noticed that the whole town was built on a really steep hill, so the streets were practically walls in terms of incline. In order to move up without getting exhausted I saw people walking in a zig-zag motion. Almost an hour later Sergio messaged me back, apologizing for not being awake and missing my messages and calls. I made it to his house and crashed for a nap.
In Xilitla I spent most of my time immersed in fresh water pools and under waterfalls. The first waterfall I visited was Cascada Comales. A burst of water in the middle of a forest. I can’t imagine what it felt like for people living in the area 100 years ago to come across such a miracle of fresh water. When I got there, I noticed no one was getting in the water but every hair on my body wanted to be under this powerful stream coming down from 25 meters up. An older woman getting under the waterfall in her full clothing encouraged me and I decided to jump in. Eventually everyone around me was getting in and under the water.
One day I tried going to another popular fresh water pool called Las Pozas but found it to be way too crowded. Deciding to leave and see if I could dip in Cascada Comales again before they closed access to it for the day, I ran into a French girl who was also visiting the town. She told me to join her and her friends at another fresh water spot. I said I could meet up with them later. When I finally got there, no one was there but a friendly dog had followed me down so I decided to walk with her down the fresh water stream and finalled dipped in when it got deep enough. We played fetch and she stayed with me until I made it back to the top. I would have to say this was my first dog love and the first time I really connected with a dog. She seemed to be able to read my mind and I enjoyed the encounter like I would have enjoyed the moment with another person.
One night Sergio, my couchsurfing host, invited me to the bar he managed Casa Viejo. I got there to find out that not only was he the manager but also bartender, DJ, and general mood creator. I joined him at the bar and watched him make drinks. Bartending has always been a skill/art I am fascinated by. A plate of quesadillas and a mojito later, Sergio told me “hey there’s a guy who offered to pay for your account but I said no it’s not necessary cause you’re my friend etc.” I looked at him with arched eyebrows and responded, “I am way over my budget on this trip if he wants to pay for my drinks and food and even flight home let him.”
The next day Sergio drove us to what he calls his alberca. The images speak for themselves with clear blue and green fresh water that feels like cucumber bath and facial. It’s even more beautiful in person. At one point all the family that had joined us in the water left. There was the most serene quiet with bird chirps and water drips. Every time I got out I had the urge to jump back in again and I did several times. Until Sergio told me there would never be a time in which I felt satisfied enough to not jump back in so we left. Most people I spoke to from Mexico City had never heard of Xilitla, but I am glad I decided to go anyway because it is a haven of fresh water pools and nature.